Reference

INCI ingredient glossary

INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names are the Latin and chemical names printed on every cosmetics label in the EU. Here is what the common ones in natural and conventional cosmetics mean.

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A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P R S T X Z

Alcohol (Ethanol)Solvent, preservative: In natural cosmetics usually organic grain or grape alcohol. "Alcohol Denat." is denatured ethanol.
AllantoinSoothing: Skin-calming compound found in comfrey; in cosmetics usually made synthetically.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Aloe vera juice)Soothing, humectant: Juice from the inner leaf gel. Often replaces part of the water in natural creams.
Aqua (Water)Solvent: The base of most creams, lotions and shampoos. Listed first when it is the largest ingredient.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (Argan oil)Emollient: Moroccan kernel oil, popular in hair care.
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)Antioxidant: Pure vitamin C; effective but unstable, so look for opaque, airless packaging.
Benzyl AlcoholPreservative, fragrance: Permitted preservative in natural standards; also declarable as a fragrance allergen.
BetaineHumectant: Moisture-binding compound originally isolated from sugar beet.
BisabololSoothing: Calming component of German chamomile oil, also obtained from the candeia tree.
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea butter)Emollient: Rich West-African nut butter; the INCI name is being updated to Vitellaria Paradoxa.
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Marigold)Soothing: Traditional for sensitive and baby skin.
CarbomerGelling agent: Synthetic acrylic polymer used for clear gels; not permitted under natural-cosmetics standards.
Cassia Obovata Leaf Powder ("Neutral henna")Conditioning, colour: Barely tints dark hair; gives a golden hue on very light hair.
Cera Alba (Beeswax)Thickener: Balms and creams; not vegan.
Cetearyl Alcohol (Fatty alcohol)Emulsifier, thickener: Made from plant fats; not drying like ethanol despite the name.
Cetearyl GlucosideEmulsifier: Sugar-and-fat based emulsifier accepted by natural standards.
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract (German chamomile)Soothing: Contains bisabolol; common in shampoos for light hair.
CI 77019 (Mica)Colour, shimmer: Natural mineral that adds pearl and shimmer to make-up.
CI 77491 (Red iron oxide)Colour: Mineral pigment used in make-up. CI 77492 is yellow and CI 77499 black.
CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)Colour, UV filter: White mineral pigment.
CitralFragrance component: Lemony note from lemongrass and litsea. Declarable allergen.
Citric AcidpH adjuster, chelating: Fruit acid used in tiny amounts to bring a formula to skin-friendly pH. Usually made by fermentation.
CitronellolFragrance component: Found in rose and geranium oil. Declarable allergen.
Cocamidopropyl BetaineCo-surfactant: Coconut-derived foam booster used in many shampoos; a recognised, if uncommon, contact allergen, mostly through process impurities.
Coco-GlucosideMild surfactant: Sugar-based cleanser used in gentle shampoos and baby washes.
Cocos Nucifera Oil (Coconut oil)Emollient: Solid at room temperature; the source of many mild surfactants.
CoumarinFragrance component: Sweet hay/tonka scent. Declarable allergen.
Decyl GlucosideMild surfactant: One of the mildest foaming agents.
Dehydroacetic AcidPreservative: One of the few synthetic preservatives allowed in certified natural cosmetics, often paired with benzyl alcohol.
Dimethicone (Silicone)Film former: Gives slip and shine; not allowed by NATRUE or COSMOS natural standards.
Disodium EDTAChelating agent: Synthetic chelator that stabilises formulas; natural standards use alternatives such as sodium phytate.
Equisetum Arvense Extract (Field horsetail)Conditioning: Silica-rich herb traditionally used in hair and nail care.
EugenolFragrance component: Clove note. Declarable allergen.
FarnesolFragrance component: Found in many flower oils. Declarable allergen.
GeraniolFragrance component: Rose and palmarosa note. Declarable allergen.
Glycerin (Glycerol)Humectant: Draws moisture into the skin. In certified natural cosmetics it comes from plant oils.
Glyceryl StearateEmulsifier: Helps oil and water stay mixed.
Hamamelis Virginiana Water (Witch hazel)Astringent: Toners for oily skin; the distillate may contain some alcohol.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (Sunflower oil)Emollient: Inexpensive, linoleic-rich base oil grown widely in Europe.
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil (Sea buckthorn oil)Emollient, colour: Deep-orange oil rich in carotenoids; tints formulas slightly.
Hydrolyzed Wheat ProteinConditioning: Wheat protein broken into small fragments that film the hair and smooth the cuticle.
Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Powder (Indigo)Hair colour: Blue plant dye; mixed with henna for brown and black shades.
Juglans Regia Shell Powder (Walnut shell)Colour, exfoliant: Used for warm brown tones in herbal hair colours and as a scrub particle.
Kaolin (White clay)Absorbent: Masks, powders and deodorants.
Lactic AcidpH adjuster, exfoliant: Fermentation acid; at low levels it adjusts pH, at higher levels it is a gentle AHA exfoliant.
Lanolin (Wool wax)Emollient: From sheep's wool; not vegan.
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil (Lavender oil)Fragrance: Rich in linalool, which is why linalool follows it on the label.
Lawsonia Inermis Leaf Powder (Henna)Hair colour: Gives copper-red tones by binding to keratin. Pure henna contains no PPD.
LecithinEmulsifier, emollient: Phospholipids from soy or sunflower; helps oil and water mix and softens skin.
LimoneneFragrance component: Citrus-peel terpene. Declarable allergen; oxidises on air exposure, so fresh products matter.
LinaloolFragrance component: Occurs naturally in lavender, coriander and rosewood oil. Must be listed by name in the EU above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products because some people are allergic to it.
Methylparaben (Paraben)Preservative: Excluded by natural-cosmetics standards.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)Skin conditioning: Well-studied vitamin that supports the skin barrier and evens tone.
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (Olive oil)Emollient: Traditional Mediterranean soap and balm oil.
Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5)Moisturising: Converted to pantothenic acid in the skin.
Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral oil)Emollient: Petroleum-derived oil. Excluded by NATRUE and COSMOS natural-cosmetics rules.
Parfum (Fragrance)Fragrance: A blend. In certified natural cosmetics it must be made from natural essential oils and extracts; in conventional products it may be synthetic.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (PEG compound)Solubiliser: Ethoxylated; excluded by natural-cosmetics standards.
Persea Gratissima Oil (Avocado oil)Emollient: Rich oil pressed from avocado flesh; good for dry skin.
Petrolatum (Petroleum jelly)Occlusive: Petroleum-derived protective film. Not allowed in certified natural cosmetics.
PhenoxyethanolPreservative: Common in conventional products; not allowed in NATRUE or COSMOS certified products.
Potassium SorbatePreservative: Allowed in certified natural cosmetics; often paired with sodium benzoate.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet almond oil)Emollient: Classic light massage and baby oil.
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (Castor oil)Emollient, gloss: Thick oil used in lip balms and lash serums.
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (Rosehip oil)Emollient: Linoleic-rich oil from wild-rose hips, popular in facial oils.
Rosa Centifolia Flower Water (Cabbage-rose water)Toning, scent: Hydrosol left over from steam-distilling rose petals; mild and lightly fragrant.
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil (Damask rose oil)Fragrance: Steam-distilled essential oil. Contributes geraniol, citronellol and other declarable allergens.
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract (Rosemary extract)Antioxidant: Slows oils going rancid, so it often works as a natural stabiliser.
Salicylic AcidExfoliant, preservative: Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) originally from willow bark; unclogs pores and also preserves at low levels.
SilicaMattifier, thickener: Fine mineral powder that absorbs oil and gives a soft-focus finish.
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Jojoba oil)Emollient: Technically a liquid wax; very stable and close to skin sebum.
Sodium BenzoatePreservative: Allowed in certified natural cosmetics.
Sodium Chloride (Table salt)Thickener: Thickens shampoos and shower gels made with surfactants. Harmless on skin in these amounts.
Sodium Coco-SulfateSurfactant: Coconut-derived; stronger foam, similar in feel to SLS.
Sodium Cocoate (Coconut-oil soap)Cleansing: Saponified coconut oil; gives soap big, quick lather.
Sodium Cocoyl GlutamateMild surfactant: Cleansing agent made from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid; common in gentle natural shampoos.
Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic acid salt)Humectant: Today made by fermentation.
Sodium Hydroxide (Lye)Saponifying agent, pH adjuster: Turns oils into soap. In a finished, correctly made soap it has fully reacted, so none remains free.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)Surfactant: Conventional foaming agent; excluded by most natural labels because it is ethoxylated.
Sodium Olivate (Olive-oil soap)Cleansing: The salt formed when olive oil is saponified; the base of Castile-style soaps.
Sodium PhytateChelating agent: Plant-derived chelator (from phytic acid) used instead of EDTA in natural formulas.
SqualaneEmollient: Saturated, stable oil; plant-based versions come from olives or sugar cane.
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa butter)Emollient: Hard, chocolate-scented butter used in balms and lotion bars.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)Antioxidant: Protects oils from oxidation in the jar.
Xanthan GumThickener: Fermentation-derived gum that gives gels body.
Zinc OxideMineral UV filter: Physical sunscreen and soothing paste ingredient.

About the allergen names

Ingredients like linalool, limonene and geraniol often appear at the end of natural-cosmetics labels even though nobody added them on purpose. They are components of essential oils that EU law (Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, with the list of declarable fragrance allergens expanded by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545) requires brands to name above set concentrations. It is a disclosure rule, not a sign that the product is synthetic.

Learn to read a whole label in the INCI reading guide, or see which ingredients each certification label rules out.